William Dalrymple’s Nine Lives: In Search of the Sacred in Modern India explores the clash between modernization and tradition in contemporary India. Early on, he illustrates with several anecdotes from his travels:
“Outside Jodhpur, I visited a shrine and pilgrimage centre that has formed around an Enfield Bullet motorbike. Initially erected as a memorial to its own, after the latter suffered a fatal crash, the bike has now become a centre of pilgrimage, attracting pilgrims - especially devout truck drivers - from across Rajasthan in search of the miracles of fertility it was said to effect . . . . In Kannur in northern Kerala, I met Hari Das, a well-builder and parttime prison warden for ten months of the year . . . . But during the theyyam dancing season, between January and March, Hari has a rather different job. Though he comes from an untouchable Dalit background, he nevertheless is transformed into an omnipotent deity for three months a year, and as such is worshipped as a god. Then, at the end of March, he goes back to the prison.”
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